Stylist Tip #1: Tailoring

Every Body is different...

Before I became a stylist I just bought what looked nice off the rack. The heartbreak occurred when something looked great on the hanger, but somehow didn't look good on me. Whereas, from time to time, this is simply the hard truth that we have to swallow...at other times we do not.   I discovered this as we always have a tailor on set to make sure those clothes you see in the catalogs are fitted perfectly to the models body....and why should models have all the fun?

I took the opportunity the other day to ask the on-set tailor some questions, and here is her advice:

Pants: 

Make sure the hem line is correct. It's such an easy fix, there's just no excuse! Not too short, and definitely not so long that they drag on the ground...a trouser should have one nice 'break' (which is a half fold/bend at the front of the ankle). Tailors will not have a problem taking hems up, and depending on the pant, can sometimes also give them extra length by letting them down, if need be.

Fit around the butt is paramount! Avoid muffin top by going for a slightly higher rise, and making sure the waist band fits properly. If you have a slight apple bottom (like me), then you may be plagued with 'bucket butt' waist lines, where the back of the waist band does not hug the lower back. In such a case, buy pants that fit the widest part of you with ease, then have the back of the waistband taken in. Yes, that may mean buying a size or two up.

Skirts/dresses:

The hemline can often be altered...and if you are 'petite', sometimes you may find a dress too dowdy as it hits below the knee, when in fact it was intended to hit just above the knee. Again, a very easy fix. Take a look in the mirror and determine what proportions are right for your body type.

Jackets:

The shoulder seam should hit nicely on the edge of your own shoulder. not too tight...and certainly not hanging off the end. Jackets can be altered slightly to hit the right spot, but only if they are one size too big. 

Also make sure your cuffs are the right length. They should hit about 1" below your wrist. It's also nice to see a half inch of shirt cuff peaking out.

Other:

In the summer, spaghetti strap tops and dresses often have straps that are too long. Take those suckers up lest you flash someone in some tragic wardrobe misfunction....but not too high either, miss prim. It's all about the happy medium.

She also suggests that if you get most your wardrobe from chain stores, that you can up them a notch by replacing bad plastic buttons with fancy ones. Try M&J trim, or your local fabric store.

Tailors

High end:

Bermini (menswear) 380 Lexington Ave, 17th Floor

Madame Paulette (womenswear) 1255 2nd Ave

Midrange:

Michael The Parisian Tailor 212 3rd Ave

Cheap and cheerful:

Try your local dry cleaners.

I love Sew Good 337 E. 9th St