splash some color on that neutral!

For a good few seasons now, I have been adoring the combinations of neutrals. Nudes and tans paired with greys and textural silvers. Greys paired with caramel leather. Every subtle contrasty nuance really whetted my aesthetic appetite. 

The next step has finally come, with brightly colored prints and embroidery gracing taupe, tan, and khaki fabrics. I adore this unexpected contrast. The sea of sandy earthtone is enough to make the brightest and busiest pattern a just subtle flirt. And the color elevates the khaki out of utilitarian and into femininity.

I don't see how you can go wrong with a piece like those I have seen on the runways for Fall 2011. I imagine they will be in your closet for years to come.

I love the whimsical bird pattern of the Mulberry dress on the left. On the right, Matthew Williamson takes a step back from his usual 100% color saturation, placing his bright embroidery on an unexpected canvas.  Having made many trips to Mexico, I am used to seeing such bright floral embroidery on equally bright whites, which is often too much for my aesthetic.

I can't wait for these pieces (and ones like them) to hit the stores, so in the mean time, I will have to throw on some bright colored accessories and shoes with my khakis and tans.

Photos by style.com

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High Contrast

I love this look. The high contrast of black and white, and the complimentary juxtaposition of floaty feminine and hard masculine. A great look for any gal, and one that I believe to be ultimately inspired by Courtney Love. Yes, I think we are well into the thick of 90's revival (surreal, isn't it...those of you who were young adults in the 90's?)

Ever since I acquired a white chiffon dress (Jovovic-Hawk for Target, remember the one?), I have been sporting the look. Mainly because I love the romanticism of a white floaty dress, but need to give it the strength it needs to survive in the big city (otherwise that floaty white dress with be stomped on, sullied, and perhaps mugged). So once again, styling comes into play: it's all in the pairing. In this case, I have worn my dress in many variations: with a vest, with a boyfriend cardigan, a blazer, even a leather jacket.

So I took note when I saw the look heading down the runway in droves. Pictured above is Maticevski, Erin Fetherston (both fall 2010), and Narciso Rodriguez (spring 2010). Pictured below is a story for Glamour, and the legendary Patti Smith. And then, just for fun, below that I made a collage of random fashion savvy celebs who also have sported versions of the look. And one day, my pretties, I will snap a shot of myself in the aforementioned Jovovic-Hawk dress so you can see how I do it.

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Martial Law: thou shalt wear Utilitarian chic.

Another undeniable presence on the runway was utilitarian, uniform, and military influences. Often this look creates strong shoulders and clean lines. But sometimes, it can swing the other way, evoking the grungy squatter kinds that live in the park across the street from my house. Personally, I prefer the former. As much as I love that grunge is back, I prefer to do so with the color evoked by plaid shirts, rather than the grim khaki shirts of the military. Honestly, I think this has everything to do with my daily exposure to the kids across the street, and their general head to toe dirt color. It also has to do with the fact that a structured shoulder looks great on me (and any other girl with a slight frame).

And once again, my favorite thing to do is play with contrasts. I just adore the big wool coat by Philosophy, belted nice and tiny at the waist and paired with a floaty chiffon and sequined gown. Absolutely mouth watering with its diversity of flavor. I also enjoyed how Doo.Ri created a very sleek simple blue uniform dress, but added subtly feminine draping on the skirt.

It seems to me that there is a lot of room to play mix and match with this trend. Much like my much loved black moto jacket, I think a few choice military pieces could go with just about every feminine frock in your closet.

Pictured above from left to right top: Doo.Ri, Philosophy, William Rast, Richard Chai Love. From left to right bottom: Marc by Marc, Rag and Bone, (philosophy's feet), Vivienne Tam. (all shots pulled from Style.com)

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Strong shoulders dominate the trends

As a girl with tiny inconsequential shoulders, I am loving the strong shoulder trend. I need help in that arena. An embellished and architectural shoulder balances out my hips and draws the eye to my face, as if it was perfectly placed between two ornate bookends. Strong shoulders give me strength and poise (to mask how the economy might have me sloped and slouching around).

I am digging shoulderpad trend version 2.0 which is severe in architecture and actually more pointy and small, rather than the large rounded and line-backeresque version 1.0 (as seen in any John Hughes movie). Or else, just a great embellishment will do the trick.

And whereas this is something I am seeing all over the runways and the high-street alike, it is also something easily replicated with a little bit of DIY. One can buy shoulderpads of different shapes and sizes at your local fabric and crafts shop. Or else, a few pyramid studs or sequined appliques could be added to a simple t-shirt. I mean, go nuts. Anything you find that comes in a pair and can be sewn to your shoulders is fair game, if you ask me. Let's all be a little bit Gaga.

In the picture above (top left to right, then bottom left to right): William Rast, Staerk, Temperley, Jen Kao, Rodarte, VPL, Derek Lam, and Vena Cava. (pictures pulled from Style.com)

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Another fab ongoing trend: High waisted pencil skirts

We can't all be 5'11", and rail thin...but we can all at least give off that illusion. I have to say, I was really glad when waistlines found their way back up above the belly button. There was a decade or two there, when it was seen as being too 'irkle'. No, instead, girls wore their waistlines so low they were always in danger of showing crack or thong straps, and someone was given much reason to coin the phrase "muffin-top". Belts were worn low, at the very widest part of a womans body, and the legline was foreshortened. What were we thinking?

Now, I have always been a devotee of the 1940's, so even while low slung bootleg pants abounded, I would treat myself to a night dressed up as his girl friday. I'm not the curviest of gals, so I have always rather enjoyed a belt snug at my natural waistline (a good inch above my belly-button), to emphasize the difference in ratio between the tiniest part of my silhouette and the biggest (ribcage vs. derrier).

So thank god for the return of the high-waisted pencil skirt. A skirt with a tiny waist, a hip that curves out, length to just below the knee, hugging all the way down. All of a sudden, the longest portion of the body is the legs, and the silhouette is hourglass (really, for just about everyone). Just be sure to wear a nice high pair of pumps. The higher the better (best make use of all those platforms we have been seeing around), since you have elongated your thighs, you'll want to elongate the lower leg as well. And simply, a good heel will complete the look.

This look has many possible variations (as exemplified above), but I am partial to a tight skirt paired with a blouson top. I love to throw a strong shouldered jacket over top. Depending on my mood, I'll do a shrunken jacket if I want to be retro-sexy, or a boyfriend jacket of I want to go a smidge more casual and modern. But I have to reiterate that as much as I love my biker boots with everything, I will only wear sky high heels with a pencil skirt. It's really the only time I'm strict about footwear, actually.

Also, beware half-assed skirts. In a recent shopping trip for a client, I found that most skirts being sold on the high street these days are not high waisted enough. If the yolk of the skirt is wise and curved, then the waist line is not high enough. This is because all curvature happens at the belly button and below. If the waist of the skirt is truely high enough, it should go straight across, hugging the bottom of your ribcage, while the rest of the skirt curves out over the hips and bum.

Pictured above from NY Fashion Week Fall Winter 2010 (from left to right): Victoria Beckham, VPL, Shipley and Halmos, and Peter Som (all pulled from Style.com)

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Fashion Week Trend: Mixed prints still going strong...

I am glad to see that fashionweek actually mostly reiterated trends that started a couple years ago. One needs to build a wardrobe over the course of years, rather than start afresh every season. One of my absolute favorite on-going trends is mixing prints. There is such freedom and joy in the act! Such expression!

Spring is almost here, and I want to see some color people. Of course, mixing prints is a fine art. People will give you rules and guidelines to avoid hurting the eyes of fellow passers by. But personally, I think there can be great mixes outside of these guidelines, if you have a good eye for it.

Personally, I try to mix up the shapes. Generally I do not put two florals together, but rather pair my florals with a more graphic shape such as a stripe or a plaid. It is also quite nice when there is one color in common in two patterns (but say, one is dominant in that color, while the other only has the color as an accent). I find that generally black and white patterns can be mixed with any colored pattern. You can avoid trouble if your patterns are either graphically simple, or tonally uniform. And also, don't forget that you can mix in textures as well, such as lace. This usually works quite well because such textured fabrics tend to be mono-tone, thus simplifying at least one variable.

But really, at the end of the day, you will have to trust your eye to be a mix-master. Treat it like accessories, you have to take two off before leaving the house. Mix your prints, and then find a way to simplify the elements involved: color, shape, size, tone. Patterns should be harmonious and complimentary, even in their difference.

Pictured above, from left to right: Karen Walker, Peter Som, Chris Benz, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler (all pulled from Style.com)

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Fashion Week Trend: Grey and Tan, a love story.

I do believe that grey has become a very long lasting trend that may be part of what describes a decade. Personally I love grey, it is a timeless neutral color that seems to go with everything. Colors pop against grey, and it can be styled anywhere from classy uptown to grungy downtown. For the most part, my personal color palate has me wearing loads of grey and popping my favorite saturated jewel tones.

However, by way of my love for grey, I have come to appreciate other neutrals as well. Namely tan, taupe, and caramel. In the past, I have found such a neutral to be too bland, and also more suited to blonde haired gals. But one day, grey and caramel fell in love with one another. They met, and everyone thought that two neutrals next to one another would amount to a big old bore. But instead, they set each other off. The two colors that try hard to be ignored, had somehow become the power couple that people could not keep their eyes off of. Really the best relationships are the ones without too much drama, and that bring out the absolute best of those involved.

Grey and Tan, deeply in love, show the world how they are the same in many ways but also opposite in others. Both neutral and subtle together, but one warm, and one cold. One soft and one hard. It seems that the fashion world has fallen in love with pantones new dynamic duo.

Of course, there were also loads of examples this fashionweek of head to toe grey looks (MJ, anyone?), which I still love for it's own simple elegance and subtle edginess. I just wanted to call attention to this one particular combo.

From left to right in the photo above: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Rebecca Taylor, Zac Posen, Derek Lam, and Doo Ri (all pulled from Style.com).

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Fashion Week Trend: Say it ain't so, with all the FUR!

It is with a heavy heart that I must report that Fur was an unavoidably huge trend during this fashionweek. It was so prevalent, that I would be amiss to ignore it. I blame Rachel Zoe.

It's tough, because I must admit that the fur adds texture, dimension, volume and a ton of character to the looks. But I seriously could not wear it unless it was fake, and then faux fur starts to feel like an oversized dust-bunny after a while.

I will not go on too much about this trend, as the first thing it makes me think of is how much I love my cat. But second to cute furry animals who did no one any harm, fur can recall the 70's (if you're Rachel Zoe), or old hollywood glamour, or even mad-max beyond thunder dome (think Tina Turner). I must admit that I really liked how the looks came together on the runway, and I am not entirely sure how I might get the same feel with another material (a chunky sweater maybe??). So all I can suggest is to save your pennies and a few lives, by buying a fakie. There's no shame in that!

Top photo from left to right: Vena Cava, Richard Chai Love, Derek Lam, Carlos Miele, Helmut Lang. Bottom photo from left to right: Jeremy Laing, Karen Walker, DKNY, Marc Jacobs (love those gloves!!), Jen Kao. (all pictures from Style.com)

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Fashion Week: Style it with a black shirt.

I love to notice styling ideas and trends at fashion-week as much as I love seeing great design. This is nothing particularly revolutionary and new, but I thought it warranted a post, none-the less. Wearing a tight long sleeve black shirt under a dress in winter. I especially like it when the shirt is knit, but very sheer, and when the dress is silky and even a little spring-like. What a fabulous way to make your favorite spring dresses winterized. And it is also a great way to tone down evening dresses to daywear, fancy dresses to bar-wear, and sexy dresses to in-law-wear.

My favorite application of this look was at BCBG Max Azria. The shirts were perfectly fitted, just the right amount of sheer, and I loved when he put a flowey silky boldly printed strapless over the shirt. Add a chunky leather belt at the waist, and I'm in heaven.

Basically, this is the equivalent of opaque black tights, but for the arms. And it's especially good when you are cold, but don't want to hide the dress under a jacket or sweater. Now, you could also wear black opaque tights with this look, but I prefer if you vary up the degree of density and texture. At Vena Cava, they used a very opaque black turtleneck, but paired it with black fishnets. perfect. It really is always about showing just the right amount of skin.

Now, because I am a stylist, and my job is to source stuff, I found for you this American Apparel long sleeve shirt.

In the picture above from left to right: BCBG Max Azria, Zac Posen, Helmut Lang, Vena Cava (all taken from Style.com)

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Fashion Week Trend-watch: Leather Leggings

First of all, forgive me my delayed postings. I humbly attended as many shows as humanly possible, and now I must digest, photoshop, and write. But given enough time, and I will deliver the goods.

First up is a growing trend, and one I personally am lusting for: Leather Leggings. I had previously done a posting when I worked with a super-model who had arrived on set with the most fantastic pair of Rag and Bone leather leggings (given to her, of course). Since then I have had my eyes open for a pair, and apparently a lot of designers have been busily making their own versions for the Fall/Winter 2010 runways.

I think what is making them so great is the invention of 'stretch leather'. It's buttery, it breathes, and it stretches without losing it's shape. In the distant past, I was afraid of leather pants because they were so thick and restricting. I could only imagine the sweat soaking into the unforgiving lining, and the mere act of sitting down seemed like it would be an ordeal. They were often uncomfortably tight on top, but woefully wide around the lower leg and ankle.

But now leather leggings have come to the fore. They are soft and stretchy, warm for winter but still breathable, and are skinny all the way to the ankle, making them sexy as hell.

I saw many pairs grace the runway this season, so I expect there will be many choices this coming winter. Pictured above from left to right are: Diane Von Furstenberg, L.A.M.B., Cushnie et Ochs, and Derek Lam. Pictured below from left to right: Zero Maria Cornejo, William Rast, Catherine Malandrino, Diesel, and Max Azria(photos taken from Style.com)

They are a pricey item for the wardrobe, but one I expect a person could get a lot of use out of over the years.

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I'm obsessed with...

Vests. I know, it's so 80's...and yet, somehow, completely modern. Currently, we do vests with more of an edge than Molly Ringwald ever did. Pair one with your fave grey skinny jeans and a slightly loose and thread-bare white v-neck t-shirt. Add a few long chains and a badass wrist cuff (or a jumble of missmatching chain bracelets and strings of leather). Finish off with some boots, et voila, edgy modern boyfriend vest. If it's cold outside, you can't go amiss with a woven scarf with tassles thrown jauntily around the neck.

At the end of the day, it's an easy way to dress up a t-shirt and jeans when you can't really be bothered to wear anything more complicated.

Above, left to right:

Target, Alexander Wang (at Barneys COOP), Topshop, Urban Outfitters.

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Must have piece for fall '08: Crop Biker jacket

I couldn't help but notice the spotlight on this must-have piece, especially when a  rather stylish friend of mine asked me where-oh-where could she find the perfect leather biker jacket. We discussed how great they are for fall, and how you can throw them over anything. In fact, the girlier the dress, the better a bad-ass distressed leather jacket will work. Personally, I like 'em worn in, and with really good quality buttery yet distressed leather. the most important thing, however, is fit. You don't want some large clunky mens thrift-store find, as it will probably overwhelm you. Yes, I advocate boyfriend blazers, but mens leather biker jackets can weigh a ton and really drown a girl. I'm a big fan of the current cropped look, especially with a 3/4 length sleeve. If the sleeve is long, just make sure that the leather is supple enough to scrunch it up, or the cuffs can unzip and fold back. Show off those dainty feminine wrists peeking out of your don't-f-with me jacket. Below were the best I could find on the net. Left to right: Urban outfitters, Shopbop, and Bloomingdales.

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Spring '09 TREND: Sparkles

Sequins, beading, swarovski crystals oh my!

Everywhere I turned I saw the magical mystery sparkliness of glamour...and yet, somehow it was never over played, never garish. Hey, who doesn't like a bit of bling? We are all attracted to shiny things.

So go for it, and add that certain je ne sais quoi. My suggestion is to also dress it down a bit...perhaps with a boxy silhouette, or paired with a matte fabric. Neutral or dark tones are also a classy take. But whatever you do, carry it with attitude!

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Spring '09 TREND: Grey

Grey has been around for more than a few seasons, and it looks like it still has a lot of steam for seasons to come. Could this be a defining color of the decade? I think so.

Personally, I adore grey. It's edgy, yet neutral. It can be very flattering, and goes with absolutely everything. I love mixing it with other neutrals, such as a nice caramel toned leather belt or tan fabric. Or else you can spice it up with a pop of boldly bright color such as chartreuse, orange, or magenta. In this way, grey can actually allow you to be brave with your color choices without being the loudest person in the room. Bonus!

In terms of jewelry, of course silver looks great, but I get a nice buzz off of mixing gold and brass tones on my grey. Top it off with a touch of diamante and I'm flying high!

Well, I was beginning to think that all the grey in my wardrobe was because I was starting to look like my cat. But unless everyone else in the fashionworld wants to look like my cat, I think I can blame designers for this one. Phew!

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Spring '09 TREND: Mixing patterns

Again, this is another trend that you can implement now...in fact, it's much easier to do in the fall, as there are more opportunities to layer and thus more opportunities to clash patterns. 

Mixing patterns is an art, and a very fun one at that. As a beginner, I would suggest choosing contrasting patterns. Such as mixing a big print with a small print, a plaid with a swirl, a floral with a stripe.  Go ahead and play with color, choosing colors that complement each other (such as the pink and orange, or auburn and blue you see to the left).

You should also pay some attention to silhouette as you do this. Patterns add a sort of noise that adds to your overall presence. I would suggest nipping it at the waist, or using a skinny leg pant, or a short skirt to keep it feminine and svelt. 

Load up on chunky bangle bracelets and add on some nerd glasses to finish off your look, but avoid too much fussy jewelry as your clothes will carry enough interest. But most of all, have fun with it!  The most important part is that you walk out the door absolutely confident in your look.

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Spring '09 TREND: Boyfriend

Ahhh, the proverbial I-raided-my-boyfriends-closet look...or if you are saucy, the sunday morning look.

Personally, this is one of my favorite looks of the season (it's actually been present for a couple seasons, only now it has fully blossomed).

The reason it is great is that it is casual and comfortable, yet sexy. But the sexiness is entirely in the attitude and utter effortlessness. The sexy is in the state of mind of a woman who is completely comfortable with herself and confident without trying too hard to draw your attention. There is mystery to the female form, but the gait with which you walk lets people know that even though they can't see it, you are completely hot under the boxy look. Another way to look at it is that it looks as if you have a man in your life (whether or not you actually do), a man who you want to keep close to you.  And you know how men love competition, it's not too hard to see the appeal.  Maybe it will help them imagine how you'll look in the morning cooking them eggs wearing one of their oxford button-up shirts.

There are many easy ways to rock this look without breaking the bank. I actually like to balance it out with a touch of feminine...maybe a mens v-neck t-shirt, but over skinny jeans. Or I love to wear a boyfriend blazer or oversized cardigan over a dress or short shorts.  Regardless, you can find any of these elements in the mens section of the Gap or your local vintage store. This look is much more in the styling than wearing any particular designer.

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Spring '09 TREND: Asymetrics

Phew! Now that I have done all the reviews I intend to do (if I attended your show, and did not review you, I apologize...I'm only one person!), I shall set my sights to outlining trends for you.

My friends always ask me after fashion week about the trends, So I would be happy to digest all that I have seen and put together tidy little summaries.

Trend one: Asymetrics. Mostly seen around the neckline for at least one or two pieces at the majority of the shows that I attended.

My interpretation is that it's important to keep people on their toes. When someone sees you walk into a room, you want to knock them off their balance, you want to be mysterious and unpredictable, you want to show a small amount of skin as a small tease without giving away the whole game. So take these principles with you when you dress in the morning or for a night out. No, you don't necessarily need to go out and buy a new dress. Why not alter a tank top or t-shirt? Or simply wear an off the shoulder number just draped jauntily to the side. Or else you could get one fabulous dangly earring and adorn it just on one ear. I also saw a lot of low side chignon hair-do's. Point is, get creative, get a little daring, add a touch of class, and you're on trend.

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Trend: Houndstooth

There was a time...it was probably around 1990, when I had decided that houndstooth was the ugliest thing ever, and I hoped that it would all be burned. Of course, at the beginning of any decade one must destroy the last one, so in hindsight, I can see that I was just rebelling. And I suppose you know how the story progresses: time wore on until one day I began to harbor warm fuzzy feelings towards the 80's, and a deep set nostalgia set in. Although, really, I have had a lifelong love for New Wave music, and everything that goes with it. So like my parents are with Disco, I will forever be married to the music of my youth.

I have to thank Gwen Stefani (see above) for bringing houndstooth back into my heart. Yes, it started with an obsession with all things black and white...I bought so many black and white striped items, that I guess I needed another avenue. Houndstooth was the perfect solution, but modernized for the current trend palate. I personally am a fan of larger sized print of the iconic pattern...the smaller it is, it becomes more lady and less new wave. Pair it with a bright color or a contrasting colorful pattern such as florals, and you've just made a bold edgy statement.

Love the possibilities.

And here's the good news: the geniuses at Target spend every waking hour tirelessly researching trends for their Private Label Collection so that you can get the look for less. Check out the blouse and skirt below (I would not recommend wear them together) from their upcoming 3rd series (due out September time). Fabulous.

Or else, if you have the dough, you could get this Marc by Marc Jacobs number...

...Or this Aqua version...

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Trend watch....Tux

ChloeMoschinoAlexander Wang
Rag and Bone

Bond, James Bond...

yes, it's time to hit the casino, because tux inspired clothes have officially saturated the market. The trend has been on the runways for several seasons now, but at this point it almost seems an obligatory element in womenswear.

The fantastic thing is that it's not being taken too literally. It can be just the bib front of a tux shirt added to a dress, or satin trim on the side of your pants, or perhaps just a great waistcoat. Have fun with it!  Don't over do it....no need to dress like a man at a wedding, but adding one piece to an outfit that is already making a statement (punky or girly, it can work) will give you an edge. Think Jennifer beals in Flash Dance...how hot was that?

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