Martial Law: thou shalt wear Utilitarian chic.

Another undeniable presence on the runway was utilitarian, uniform, and military influences. Often this look creates strong shoulders and clean lines. But sometimes, it can swing the other way, evoking the grungy squatter kinds that live in the park across the street from my house. Personally, I prefer the former. As much as I love that grunge is back, I prefer to do so with the color evoked by plaid shirts, rather than the grim khaki shirts of the military. Honestly, I think this has everything to do with my daily exposure to the kids across the street, and their general head to toe dirt color. It also has to do with the fact that a structured shoulder looks great on me (and any other girl with a slight frame).

And once again, my favorite thing to do is play with contrasts. I just adore the big wool coat by Philosophy, belted nice and tiny at the waist and paired with a floaty chiffon and sequined gown. Absolutely mouth watering with its diversity of flavor. I also enjoyed how Doo.Ri created a very sleek simple blue uniform dress, but added subtly feminine draping on the skirt.

It seems to me that there is a lot of room to play mix and match with this trend. Much like my much loved black moto jacket, I think a few choice military pieces could go with just about every feminine frock in your closet.

Pictured above from left to right top: Doo.Ri, Philosophy, William Rast, Richard Chai Love. From left to right bottom: Marc by Marc, Rag and Bone, (philosophy's feet), Vivienne Tam. (all shots pulled from Style.com)

read more...

Strong shoulders dominate the trends

As a girl with tiny inconsequential shoulders, I am loving the strong shoulder trend. I need help in that arena. An embellished and architectural shoulder balances out my hips and draws the eye to my face, as if it was perfectly placed between two ornate bookends. Strong shoulders give me strength and poise (to mask how the economy might have me sloped and slouching around).

I am digging shoulderpad trend version 2.0 which is severe in architecture and actually more pointy and small, rather than the large rounded and line-backeresque version 1.0 (as seen in any John Hughes movie). Or else, just a great embellishment will do the trick.

And whereas this is something I am seeing all over the runways and the high-street alike, it is also something easily replicated with a little bit of DIY. One can buy shoulderpads of different shapes and sizes at your local fabric and crafts shop. Or else, a few pyramid studs or sequined appliques could be added to a simple t-shirt. I mean, go nuts. Anything you find that comes in a pair and can be sewn to your shoulders is fair game, if you ask me. Let's all be a little bit Gaga.

In the picture above (top left to right, then bottom left to right): William Rast, Staerk, Temperley, Jen Kao, Rodarte, VPL, Derek Lam, and Vena Cava. (pictures pulled from Style.com)

read more...

Another fab ongoing trend: High waisted pencil skirts

We can't all be 5'11", and rail thin...but we can all at least give off that illusion. I have to say, I was really glad when waistlines found their way back up above the belly button. There was a decade or two there, when it was seen as being too 'irkle'. No, instead, girls wore their waistlines so low they were always in danger of showing crack or thong straps, and someone was given much reason to coin the phrase "muffin-top". Belts were worn low, at the very widest part of a womans body, and the legline was foreshortened. What were we thinking?

Now, I have always been a devotee of the 1940's, so even while low slung bootleg pants abounded, I would treat myself to a night dressed up as his girl friday. I'm not the curviest of gals, so I have always rather enjoyed a belt snug at my natural waistline (a good inch above my belly-button), to emphasize the difference in ratio between the tiniest part of my silhouette and the biggest (ribcage vs. derrier).

So thank god for the return of the high-waisted pencil skirt. A skirt with a tiny waist, a hip that curves out, length to just below the knee, hugging all the way down. All of a sudden, the longest portion of the body is the legs, and the silhouette is hourglass (really, for just about everyone). Just be sure to wear a nice high pair of pumps. The higher the better (best make use of all those platforms we have been seeing around), since you have elongated your thighs, you'll want to elongate the lower leg as well. And simply, a good heel will complete the look.

This look has many possible variations (as exemplified above), but I am partial to a tight skirt paired with a blouson top. I love to throw a strong shouldered jacket over top. Depending on my mood, I'll do a shrunken jacket if I want to be retro-sexy, or a boyfriend jacket of I want to go a smidge more casual and modern. But I have to reiterate that as much as I love my biker boots with everything, I will only wear sky high heels with a pencil skirt. It's really the only time I'm strict about footwear, actually.

Also, beware half-assed skirts. In a recent shopping trip for a client, I found that most skirts being sold on the high street these days are not high waisted enough. If the yolk of the skirt is wise and curved, then the waist line is not high enough. This is because all curvature happens at the belly button and below. If the waist of the skirt is truely high enough, it should go straight across, hugging the bottom of your ribcage, while the rest of the skirt curves out over the hips and bum.

Pictured above from NY Fashion Week Fall Winter 2010 (from left to right): Victoria Beckham, VPL, Shipley and Halmos, and Peter Som (all pulled from Style.com)

read more...

Fashion Week Trend: Mixed prints still going strong...

I am glad to see that fashionweek actually mostly reiterated trends that started a couple years ago. One needs to build a wardrobe over the course of years, rather than start afresh every season. One of my absolute favorite on-going trends is mixing prints. There is such freedom and joy in the act! Such expression!

Spring is almost here, and I want to see some color people. Of course, mixing prints is a fine art. People will give you rules and guidelines to avoid hurting the eyes of fellow passers by. But personally, I think there can be great mixes outside of these guidelines, if you have a good eye for it.

Personally, I try to mix up the shapes. Generally I do not put two florals together, but rather pair my florals with a more graphic shape such as a stripe or a plaid. It is also quite nice when there is one color in common in two patterns (but say, one is dominant in that color, while the other only has the color as an accent). I find that generally black and white patterns can be mixed with any colored pattern. You can avoid trouble if your patterns are either graphically simple, or tonally uniform. And also, don't forget that you can mix in textures as well, such as lace. This usually works quite well because such textured fabrics tend to be mono-tone, thus simplifying at least one variable.

But really, at the end of the day, you will have to trust your eye to be a mix-master. Treat it like accessories, you have to take two off before leaving the house. Mix your prints, and then find a way to simplify the elements involved: color, shape, size, tone. Patterns should be harmonious and complimentary, even in their difference.

Pictured above, from left to right: Karen Walker, Peter Som, Chris Benz, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler (all pulled from Style.com)

read more...

Fashion Week Trend: Grey and Tan, a love story.

I do believe that grey has become a very long lasting trend that may be part of what describes a decade. Personally I love grey, it is a timeless neutral color that seems to go with everything. Colors pop against grey, and it can be styled anywhere from classy uptown to grungy downtown. For the most part, my personal color palate has me wearing loads of grey and popping my favorite saturated jewel tones.

However, by way of my love for grey, I have come to appreciate other neutrals as well. Namely tan, taupe, and caramel. In the past, I have found such a neutral to be too bland, and also more suited to blonde haired gals. But one day, grey and caramel fell in love with one another. They met, and everyone thought that two neutrals next to one another would amount to a big old bore. But instead, they set each other off. The two colors that try hard to be ignored, had somehow become the power couple that people could not keep their eyes off of. Really the best relationships are the ones without too much drama, and that bring out the absolute best of those involved.

Grey and Tan, deeply in love, show the world how they are the same in many ways but also opposite in others. Both neutral and subtle together, but one warm, and one cold. One soft and one hard. It seems that the fashion world has fallen in love with pantones new dynamic duo.

Of course, there were also loads of examples this fashionweek of head to toe grey looks (MJ, anyone?), which I still love for it's own simple elegance and subtle edginess. I just wanted to call attention to this one particular combo.

From left to right in the photo above: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Rebecca Taylor, Zac Posen, Derek Lam, and Doo Ri (all pulled from Style.com).

read more...

Fashion Week Trend: Say it ain't so, with all the FUR!

It is with a heavy heart that I must report that Fur was an unavoidably huge trend during this fashionweek. It was so prevalent, that I would be amiss to ignore it. I blame Rachel Zoe.

It's tough, because I must admit that the fur adds texture, dimension, volume and a ton of character to the looks. But I seriously could not wear it unless it was fake, and then faux fur starts to feel like an oversized dust-bunny after a while.

I will not go on too much about this trend, as the first thing it makes me think of is how much I love my cat. But second to cute furry animals who did no one any harm, fur can recall the 70's (if you're Rachel Zoe), or old hollywood glamour, or even mad-max beyond thunder dome (think Tina Turner). I must admit that I really liked how the looks came together on the runway, and I am not entirely sure how I might get the same feel with another material (a chunky sweater maybe??). So all I can suggest is to save your pennies and a few lives, by buying a fakie. There's no shame in that!

Top photo from left to right: Vena Cava, Richard Chai Love, Derek Lam, Carlos Miele, Helmut Lang. Bottom photo from left to right: Jeremy Laing, Karen Walker, DKNY, Marc Jacobs (love those gloves!!), Jen Kao. (all pictures from Style.com)

read more...

Fashion Week: Style it with a black shirt.

I love to notice styling ideas and trends at fashion-week as much as I love seeing great design. This is nothing particularly revolutionary and new, but I thought it warranted a post, none-the less. Wearing a tight long sleeve black shirt under a dress in winter. I especially like it when the shirt is knit, but very sheer, and when the dress is silky and even a little spring-like. What a fabulous way to make your favorite spring dresses winterized. And it is also a great way to tone down evening dresses to daywear, fancy dresses to bar-wear, and sexy dresses to in-law-wear.

My favorite application of this look was at BCBG Max Azria. The shirts were perfectly fitted, just the right amount of sheer, and I loved when he put a flowey silky boldly printed strapless over the shirt. Add a chunky leather belt at the waist, and I'm in heaven.

Basically, this is the equivalent of opaque black tights, but for the arms. And it's especially good when you are cold, but don't want to hide the dress under a jacket or sweater. Now, you could also wear black opaque tights with this look, but I prefer if you vary up the degree of density and texture. At Vena Cava, they used a very opaque black turtleneck, but paired it with black fishnets. perfect. It really is always about showing just the right amount of skin.

Now, because I am a stylist, and my job is to source stuff, I found for you this American Apparel long sleeve shirt.

In the picture above from left to right: BCBG Max Azria, Zac Posen, Helmut Lang, Vena Cava (all taken from Style.com)

read more...

fashion Week Trend-watch: wrap up that bandage

I must admit that when Max Azria relaunched the Herve Leger brand and bandage dress back in 2007, I thought it would be a brief one trick pony. The body-con dress can be a difficult one to pull off, as classy and sexy at the same time is a fine line to walk. But if you can walk it, all the while in 5 inch heels, it's definitely worth the risk.

So despite the fact that the bandage dress was invented a decade and half ago, it has once again gotten legs and spin off into many designers collections. I included in the photos, a dress from Max Azria spring collection, as a lot of the fall collections seem to have been heavily influenced by the print fabric and black sheer cut-outs. I am loving the new direction of the bandage dresses, with wider bandages allowing prints and ruching, lace, asymetrics,and overlays.

Regardless, there are a lot of choices for ladies out there who want to wow a room. Just be careful about that aforementioned line. If you are showing a lot of leg, ease up on the cleavage (and vice versa). Don't over-do it on the accessories, as simplicity is the key to classy. High heels are a must, but again, be sure that they don't look cheap. You can never go wrong with a simple nude or black heel. A bootie would add a nice touch of edge, while toning down the sexiness a notch.

Pictured above from left to right: Nicole Miller, Herve Leger, Max Azria (spring), Cynthia Steffe, Tracy Reese. Below from left to right: VPL, Max Azria, Diesel, Narciso Rodriguez (all pictures from Style.com).

read more...

Fashion Week Trend-watch: Leather Leggings

First of all, forgive me my delayed postings. I humbly attended as many shows as humanly possible, and now I must digest, photoshop, and write. But given enough time, and I will deliver the goods.

First up is a growing trend, and one I personally am lusting for: Leather Leggings. I had previously done a posting when I worked with a super-model who had arrived on set with the most fantastic pair of Rag and Bone leather leggings (given to her, of course). Since then I have had my eyes open for a pair, and apparently a lot of designers have been busily making their own versions for the Fall/Winter 2010 runways.

I think what is making them so great is the invention of 'stretch leather'. It's buttery, it breathes, and it stretches without losing it's shape. In the distant past, I was afraid of leather pants because they were so thick and restricting. I could only imagine the sweat soaking into the unforgiving lining, and the mere act of sitting down seemed like it would be an ordeal. They were often uncomfortably tight on top, but woefully wide around the lower leg and ankle.

But now leather leggings have come to the fore. They are soft and stretchy, warm for winter but still breathable, and are skinny all the way to the ankle, making them sexy as hell.

I saw many pairs grace the runway this season, so I expect there will be many choices this coming winter. Pictured above from left to right are: Diane Von Furstenberg, L.A.M.B., Cushnie et Ochs, and Derek Lam. Pictured below from left to right: Zero Maria Cornejo, William Rast, Catherine Malandrino, Diesel, and Max Azria(photos taken from Style.com)

They are a pricey item for the wardrobe, but one I expect a person could get a lot of use out of over the years.

read more...

Closet Commando:Watch this space for FW2010

I'm on my way out the door for yet another day full of shows. I'm running around uptown, downtown, and way over to the west-side. I'm taking notes, and getting inspired. Due to the craziness of of all, the bulk of my blogging will come after fashion-week ends. This'll also give me a chance to spot trends for ya. So. Watch this space!!

Green Plaid Silk Blouse: Vintage YSL

Stripe Blazer: Zara

High waisted Jeans: Topshop London

Oxford shoes: Steve Madden (from years ago)

Skull Socks: H&M

Necklace: Vintage

Rings: Godeux (my own line)

read more...

Fashion Week: Suma C.

Well, yesterday was a harrowing day of some disappointing shows, and today was a harrowing day of falling over in the snow. Thankfully, yesterday's bright shining star was relative new-comer Suma C. I met Suma Chander at a beautiful suite at Trump Tower overlooking the East River. We sat down and discussed how one becomes qualified to be titled a 'New Yorker', popular myth being that it takes a decade. Personally, I think that being worldly and sophisticated is what does it, and that, Suma has in spades. She also has a New Yorkers taste level: never settling for less than perfect, never gaudy, and always incorporating the very best of the best. The worldliness comes in with her Indian heritage, her traveling to Italy to find the best fabrics, and the fact that she has everything made in New York city. 

I was quite enamored with her work, her personality, and her lovely PR crew at D2publicity. I think I would have done better hanging out with them all day, than the rest of the shows I attended.  Overall, I believe her collection is to be worn by rather sophisticated women, but her look book was styled with an edge that I could really go for on a personal level. The image posted above are looks from her Fall/Winter 2010 look book, that were kindly sent to me via email. I actually had a hell of a time editing it down to my very favorites, but my dear readers can see how the aesthetic of this collection would actually fare very well in my down-town wardrobe, despite being of the luxury quality of an uptown world.

read more...

Maticevski

So, I know this is way late, being that fashionweek was in September, but you gotta cut a working stylist some slack. Thankfully the bleeding feet I get from running around town can sometimes be rewarding, as there is nothing like an eyeful of beautiful artistry to distract me from the pain.

The Maticevski show was at the Altman building, which I find to be the most friendly hassle free fashionweek venue (by the by). However, it's low key nature did not have me prepared for the edgy glamour that I was about to witness. Floaty feminine fabrics, delicate textures, touches of dazzling diamante, hand painted with black streaks to give the glamour a hard edge. When I saw the dress above, I immediately had visions of a rock-star star wedding.

*sigh*

I love it.

read more...

so, at fashionweek I noticed....

Fashion week is about the designs, yes, but you'd be surprised how important the styling of the shows can be. I know, I know, I'm biased.

Whatever.

The other day I noticed a common styling trick amongst some shows this season. Both Vena Cava and Rebecca Taylor edged up their looks by having their models wear black net tank body suits under their designs. Vena Cava was already intrinsically edgy, so it simply added dimension to the looks, but the naughty netting was unexpected with Rebecca Taylors floaty florals. I loved the tension of contrast there, and the mysterious subtle sexiness that it added.

So now you know a clever little styling trick that you can do with your own outfits at home. Simply run down to American Apparel where you can find a net body suit, or a lace body suit, or a net bra to wear under your favorite floral sundress or tank top. If you're really daring, you could even wear one under a blazer. You'll want a little of the net peeking out, without showing the whole hog (unless, of course, you're in europe). Experiment!

read more...

The Buckler dream man

I had a very pleasant visit to the Buckler presentation at his Soho boutique last saturday evening. The models were arranged on pedestals in a story like progression, from young man to seasoned and sophisticated. His chosen theme was Dorian Gray, but the subtle nuances of style that had some modern flavors.  The vintage appeal was hard to miss with tailored waistcoats, earthy print manderine collar shirts, brown leather belts, and knits all layered together in a rough Into The West kind of way.  And the modern manifested it self with a touch of rock and roll (in the form of a leather vest), asymetrical sweater vests, and more loosely fit denims.

I had the privilege of being introduced to Andrew Buckler himself, Who explained to me that this season was about the details over volume.  And details there were a plenty. The tailoring was impeccable, his mastery of layering subtle textures and fabrics to work in perfect harmony to create the right balance of bookish with outdoorsy man, and subtle nuances in modernity and vintage appeal were all present in his fine craftmanship.

All told, these are pieces that could last a man a lifetime, and will give him what he needs to dress up for a night on the town or to look fabulous whilst roughing it in a cabin in the woods. Frankly, this is the wardrobe of every womans dream man.

read more...

Wang had me at Hello

The last time I stood in an enormous line outside the Roseland Ballroom, it was for a rock show, and both times I was a devoted fan decked out in my edgiest black and grey attire with the rest of the throngs around me. The queue was massive, going around the corner beyond my line of sight. A young man in front of me was donning the requisite grey ripped beanie hat, and the woman behind me wore Alexander Wang skin tight trousers with a fly zip that went provocatively from front to back.

Security was tight, as celebrities and socialites from all around were there. I even saw Anna Wintour dressed in her own brand of rock and roll chic going for a sneak peak backstage before the show began.

It is funny to me how the fashion world has embraced punk/rock/grunge with such welcoming arms. An aesthetic I have always loved, has as a result had the brightest artistic minds bringing it to a new level, without making it over chic. Yes, Alexander won the CFDA this year, but he had me at 'hello'.

Despite last seasons brief foray into bright colors, Wang returned to his normal palate of black and grey with splashes of white and the odd deep tone of purple. He did not disappoint his diehard fans, nor his new Elite following, as he stuck to what he does best and simply made it better.  His dresses were more complex in their draping and geometry, his range of textures were more varied and luxe, and his silhouettes more refined.

What makes Alexander so great to me is the way he deftly balances the rough edge of rock and the oversized boxy silhouettes borrowed from menswear, with the sexiest of silky delicately draped mini dresses and super skinny legs and luxe fabrics.  It is a self possessed sexiness that is thoroughly modern, and I imagine quite a bit intimidating. I cannot imagine wearing a piece of his without feeling absolutely powerful in a strangely casual way. A power that is as equally feminine sexy as it is strength of conviction and confidence that is usually associated with testosterone.

Bring it on.

View the collection on Style.com

read more...

Fashion Week: Willow

Willow was a beautiful presentation downtown, and I have to say, I have become a fan of this version of show. I was able to get up really close to the pieces to see just how densely and intricately beaded some of them are. 

I adored the boho meets grecian look, with some of the most bad-ass vaguely gladiator inspired pumps I have seen in a while.

Once again, the look was loose, slouchy, and casual...but still remaining very feminine. The fabrics were fine and floaty with beautiful patterns and textures, and some with amazing beading detail.

I would definitely classify this as sophisticated hippy, I could see it on stars such as Kate Hudson or Kiera Knightly.

read more...

Fashion Week: VPL

Ok, I am grossly behind on my reviews, but please don't let that reflect poorly on how I feel about VPL by Victoria Bartlett, which was one of my favorite shows. I always look forward to the VPL show, and I am never dissappointed.  Victoria always remains true to her signature style: Neutral tones with pops of bold color, undergarment themed elastics, unconventional draping, and jersey fabrics.  Yet she always does so within the influence of very specific themes such as Suffragettes, Female choreographers, and this time Velocity.

Her themes are always rooted firmly in the idea of female strength. This time she looked at kites and parachutes to somehow communicate perhaps the feeling of freedom and possibility one has whilst in flight. Personally I love the feeling of quiet confidence, of feeling completely comfortable in ones own skin. Her work is subtley bad-ass because it is born out of inner strength. I also love her sensibility of layering, unusual accessories, and shoes...but there is no surprise there as Victoria is also a stylist (who this season is responsible for having styled the edgy looks of Miss Sixty).

Yes, I am a huge fan. I'll let you know when there is a sample sale.

read more...

Fashion Week: Jen Kao

It was yet another stormy day when I arrived at the Jen Kao show at Milk studios. Despite the miserable weather, she managed to create her own oasis of white clouds in the sky (well, the penthouse. Close enough).

Jen is fairly new on the NY fashion week scene, but is an instant favorite as over the last couple years has received a lot of press amongst the hip and with-it. She definitely had me at the first look.

Her color palette was mostly white, grey, and black, but she threw in some rather amazing cobalt pieces towards the end. Her pattern making was as intricate and geometric as a well formed piece of origami, much like the mountains of what looked to be white paper teeth that the models were navigating around.

She hit on a lot of key trends: Grey, jumpsuits, sequins, and sheer blocks. Personally, I'd give my first born for her grey strapless dress and those fabulous grey lace-up heels designed for her by Tania Spinelli. Who says I don't have my priorities straight?

read more...

Fashion Week: Chris Han

Yes folks, I know fashion week ended last Friday, and those with real stamina are now off to London Fashion week. Well, I for one, am back working on photoshoots, and way behind on my reviews.

There are still a few outstanding shows that I saw that deserve some mentioning, which I will trickle to you after my post-work pass-outs on the couch (yes the "glamorous" life of styling is also somewhat exhausting). But enough about me and my excuses, what about that Chris Han, eh?

I'm not quite sure if she is on the general publics radar yet, but she has been showing in the Bryant Park tents for a few seasons now, and at this point she should be. Each year her elegant sophistication created with luxe fabrics and a touch of individualism grows more and more refined. As ever, she was brilliant at subtley layering fabrics, which although it has been a  signature of hers for sometime, I found many designers to be doing this year.  I would say that would make Chris on the cutting edge. I just loved how she tailored a nude tone chiffon over a turquoise pencil dress, giving it a depth and interest. She also was right on trend with some intricate beading. I could have died for the black gown that came down the runway with corseted bodice completely encrusted in antique silver beading. And just as well as she did glamorous drama, she achieved her own more elegant version of the boyfriend look, with a wide leg trouser and  slightly slouchy black camisole top. Oh yeah chicas, keep your eyes out from Chris Han....

read more...

ZOOZOOM Project Runway Fashion Wars

Thanks to my lovely colleagues at ZOOZOOM you can begin to exercise those voting muscles whilst getting a nice close inspection of the Project Runway finalists creations. Now, never yea fear, this is no spoiler (as one who avoided the Tents Friday morning for this reason, take it from me). Apparently they let all 6 contestants show, so that us fashion-insider-blogger types wouldn't give the game away. So go ahead and inspect their shows, and start weighing in on who is the fairest of them all. ZOOZOOM PROJECT RUNWAY FASHION WARS special is on until the show this Wednesday.

read more...